It seems like five minutes ago that celebrities were turning up at events carrying bags with the capacity of a thimble. Thankfully, that was a short-lived trend. Fashion has moved into more practical territory.
The trophy bag du jour is significantly more roomy. From Fendi, to Balenciaga, to Loewe, mid-sized bags – the kind that can actually contain everything a woman might need over the course of her day – ruled the catwalks.
Clasps unfastened, visible interiors, spilling with contents – it’s not just acceptable for your bag to look like it’s in constant use, it’s cool.
The most emphatic proof of this was at Chanel’s most recent Paris Fashion Week show, which opened and closed with Coco Chanel’s original 2.55 bag, which she designed in 1955 because she wanted a lightweight, hands-free, elegant means of carrying her possessions. It may have been over 70 years old, the leather creased from use, but it still looked as desirable as ever.
Naturally this shift has filtered down into the collections of more accessible brands and the high street, which, in response to designer labels’ rapidly inflating prices, has seriously raised its game, with covetable bags that garner waiting lists and queues.
Polène’s new Boky is only available for pre-order. The Cos Trullo sold out faster than you can say ludicrously capacious. Sézane’s sleek totes always move fast, necessitating regular restocks. John Lewis’s slouchy Intentional tote has become one of its best sellers.
But how to find the right size, shape and aesthetic that’s right for you? Start with your own personal needs. For some, that might be a phone and a set of house keys. For others, it’s a bag that can hold a laptop, a makeup bag, a powerbank for recharging devices – oh, and a water bottle, plus the paperback book of the moment. Most women I know fall into the latter category: their bag is a portable office, lunch box and dressing table rolled into one.
It can’t be too heavy either, because the last thing a busy woman needs is a bag that causes back pain. As Anya Hindmarch once told this newspaper, “a heavy bag is hard work and tiring”.
It’s an opinion echoed by Volkan Yilmaz, better known as Tanner Leatherstein, whose Instagram videos dissecting luxury leather bags to assess the quality and construction have earned him almost a million followers. Last year, he was appointed Director of Craftsmanship and a shareholding partner at the British leather goods brand Stow London.
“A great work bag has to look smart and stylish while being roomy and functional,” he says. “Soft or semi-structured bags are best.”
A couple of inner pockets or pouches can be helpful, he adds, but steer clear of anything overly complicated because it will add to the overall weight. “Although the bag needs to be roomy, it has to remain light and easy to carry.”
It should also have “strong, comfortable straps that are not too narrow, so they don’t dig into your shoulders”.
If you’re shopping for bags in-store, bring your essentials to make sure they fit, and check that the bag is comfortable on your shoulder once full. When you set it down, does it stay upright, or do the contents spill out? Belgian brand Kaai tells you online exactly which size laptop will fit in each of its bags. One of its styles (the Helix) even has a luggage sleeve for frequent travellers.
On colour, black, brown and tan will never date, but don’t feel that you need to be wedded to them. Modern neutrals like green-grey and burgundy are equally timeless. Or consider a glossy red, which goes with most things, much like lipstick.
The right shade is the one that looks best with your go-to coats and jackets – and the one that feels most “you”.
Just the essentials
Arkshell bag, £495, Strathberry; Boky leather bag, £640, Polène; Faux leather crossbody bag, £35, Accessorize; Faux leather drawstring crossbody, £32, Marks & Spencer; Pre-loved small Seaton bag, £650, Mulberry
Happy mediums
The Ultimate Work Bag, £495, Me+Em; Hobo tote, £675, Stow London; Vittoria tote, £498, Reformation; Solal suede bag, £285, Sézane; Wilson bag in Moutarde yellow, £895, Anya Hindmarch
The kitchen sink
Suede belt bag, £380, Elleme; Oversized tote bag, £279, & Other Stories; Trullo leather flap bag, £189, Cos; Voyager bag, £695, Kaai; New York tote, £665, Demellier