Phew, that was one hot summer – even by Sardinian standards – with temperatures frequently notching the mid-40s. Grazie al cielo – or thank heavens, as the Italians say – for autumn. With skies still blazing blue, the sea warm and evenings golden, now is the time to squeeze in a weekend break to Alghero. Nicknamed Barcelonetta (“little Barcelona”) – a nod to its Catalan heritage, cuisine and dialect – dinky Alghero would be a town elsewhere, with a population just shy of 42,000, but it’s a city in Sardinia. And a seductive one at that.
With dress-circle views of the Med and whopping ramparts built by the Spanish, who ruled the city for nearly 400 years, Alghero is cinematically beautiful. But you’ll find soul as well as looks diving into its tangle of alleys and cobbled piazzas, passing Gothic churches, cafes, gift shops and restaurants serving up boat-fresh seafood. The centro storico (historic centre) is far more appealing beyond the summer crush, and with temperatures around 25C you can still pack T-shirts and enjoy your aperitivo alfresco.
In a weekend, expect to fall hard for its magnetic mix of history, beaches and boat trips to colossal sea caves, gliding across sapphire seas where dolphins leap through the waves. Arcing north of Alghero to Capo Caccia, the Porto Conte Regional Natural Park is a coastal wonderland of walking trails and bike routes, best explored in autumn. Or drive its winding roads instead, just as Roger Moore did in the 1977 Bond movie The Spy Who Loved Me.
In late September, festivities dial up a notch at the Festa di Sant Miquel, where Catalan traditions like colles castelleres (human towers) and gegants (giant papier-mâché figures) take the little city by the sea by storm.
What to do
Mild autumn days are perfect for pounding Alghero’s bastioni – the honey-coloured ramparts that wrap the historic centre. Now Instagram fodder, they once served a purpose – erected by the Catalan-Aragonese in the 16th century to prevent Ottoman raids and keep Barbary pirates at bay. Begin a walk at the Torre de Sulis, named after 19th-century Sardinian revolutionary Vincenzo Sulis who was imprisoned here for 22 years.
Slipping through the Porta a Mare gate, you’ll reach the cobbled Piazza Civica, where you can pause for a gelato, coffee or spritz, before climbing the campanile at the nearby Cattedrale di Santa Maria for sea views. The historic big-hitter is the Catalan-Gothic Chiesa di San Francesco and its adjacent convent and cloister, whose sandstone arcades deepen from gold to ochre as evening approaches.
To tune into prehistory, trek slightly out of town to Nuraghe di Palmavera, a brilliantly preserved Bronze-Age village with the ruins of two towers and 50 circular huts evoking the mysteries of Sardinia’s Nuragic civilisation.
Factor in time to flop on Alghero’s Spiaggia di Maria Pia, a swathe of frost-white sand, dunes, umbrella pines and glassy turquoise sea. Or boat it out to the Grotta di Nettuno, sea caves replete with stalactites, stalagmites and subterranean lakes, at the dramatic headland of Capo Caccia.
Where to eat and drink
Sardinian food is fantastic, and Alghero’s Catalan flavours elevate it further. Try signatures like aragosta alla catalana, lobster served cold with tomatoes, sweet onions, lemon and olive oil, and paella algherese, reinventing the Spanish classic with fregola (semolina pasta) instead of rice and bottarga (mullet roe). Pair with a glass of zesty Vermentino white wine.
At Musciora, you’re in for a treat. Danilo Delrio’s eight-course tasting menu honours family traditions, cantering across the island on the plate using freshly farmed and fished ingredients, homemade pastas and desserts. Just as outstanding is La Saletta. This old-school osteria has an intensely fishy menu, packed with explosive flavours like cuttlefish with fermented peaches, and spaghetti with Alghero red prawns.
For agriturismo under the stars, take a taxi out to Sa Mandra for food that sings of the Barbagia mountains. Pecorino and cured meats from the family farm prelude Sardinian pastas, homegrown veggies and spit-roasted suckling pig.
On the ninth floor of Hotel Catalunya, Blau Skybar has knockout views across Alghero and the Riviera del Corallo. Go for a spritz or cocktail at sunset.
Where to stay
Alghero has some classy sleeps right in the centro storico and rates take a nosedive in autumn. Lodged in a handsome 1914 villa, Luxury Liberty House Villa & Spa (B&B doubles from £145) has been given a baroque-chic makeover, putting a fresh touch on high-ceilinged interiors with original marble, stucco, wrought iron and stained glass. There’s a spa for post-sightseeing relaxing, too.
In Alghero’s medieval heart, Casa dei Liuti (doubles from £150; room only) in the charmingly revamped 15th-century Palazzo Silanos, interplays slick modern design with the historic flair of chandeliers and heritage prints.
Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton sojourned at five-star Villa Las Tronas (B&B doubles from £422) while filming the 1968 movie Boom! With surround views of the Med, a sunset-gazing pool, seafood restaurant, spa and lush gardens, the clifftop palazzo still has A-list appeal today.
Insider tips
Make the most of still-bright days cruising sapphire waters around cliff-rimmed Capo Caccia in search of playful pods of bottlenose dolphins. Eco-minded Progetto Natura whisks you away from Alghero for three hours, with onboard scientists on hand to point out marine life. Groups are small, and dolphin sightings are virtually guaranteed.
If wine is more your thing, make the short hop north to the vineyards of Sella e Mosca. At its loveliest on a golden autumn afternoon, this 520-hectare wine estate is up there with Sardinia’s finest. Tour the historic cellars before a glass of sparkling Oscarì wine. Three-wine tastings pair island treats with the estate’s zesty Vermentino whites and robust reds.
How to get there
Ryanair operates direct flights several times a week between London Stansted and Alghero, with a flight time of around two hours and 30 minutes, and prices are often slashed in autumn. ARST buses zip at least hourly between airport and city centre, with a journey time of 25 minutes. The historic centre is easily explored on foot, or rent bikes from Bike Alghero.